Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line - Ballasting

Time to start ballasting!

I start a bit last weekend with a the two sidings, trying out the DCC Concepts Legacy N gauge ballast to see how it looked. I did a bit using the light grey blend and adding in some dark grey blend at the ends of the sidings (where coal wagons etc would stand for long periods, and just general accumulation of dirt and less activity to remove it).

Next I'll show the process of how I ballast, using the runaround section in front of the station.

First step is to dish out some ballast in the area you want to work using a teaspoon or similar utensil. I then use a medium (4) brush and work the ballast into the area, tidying up the inevitable strays that accumulate.

The above shows the effect achieved, the with the shoulder to the left still to be done.

The above is after all the ballast has been laid dry, with a tiny bit of the dark grey blend in and around the magnet (assuming this is where steam locos may have stood for periods).

Finally, the above shows after applying the PVA mix. I use a small spray bottle with water first to wet the ballast (from a suitable distance to avoid disturbing it too much!), and then I apply a 50/50 mix of PVA and water with a drop of washing up liquid using a large syringe. Then leave for 24-48 hours to set. 

The final task before trains can run again is to hoover up any loose bits, or apply more ballast if there are gaps where it's missing, and then clean the rail tops which would've been covered in some of the PVA mix.

I'm hoping this weekend I can get the rest of the layout done, or at least all the sections of track between points which take a bit more patience to ensure no ballast gets between the mechanism. 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line - Metcalfe vs Peco

A slight diversion, I recently finished building the platforms and station building using the Metcalfe N gauge card kits for my Peco Plan 2 layout.

However, the station building was bloody massive. Definitely overscale, and too big in any event.

  

 

No room around the back, and not enough room on the platform. Oh well. I can save it away for another layout perhaps.

 

So I set about finding a replacement - the Peco plan suggested using their own naturally, so I gave that a shot.

 

 

 

Much better I feel - and I have space on the platform for some outdoor shelter/canopy with some seats. The kit itself was perhaps easier to build than the Metcalfe also. Naturally I'll need to weather both it and the platform to make the differences in brick colour less noticeable but I'm happy for now.
 

Converting N Gauge Couplings to NEM

Here's how to convert N gauge couplings from Peco/Graham Farish/Dapol to NEM pockets using the Dapol conversion kit.

In my case I converted some Graham Farish wagons but the process is much the same for other brands. 

First you'll need the Dapol Conversion kit which includes the outer box, inner pocket and some shims to alter the height if it's too low. It also includes a tool with multiple uses, including height checking the pocket, wheel back to back, easishunt pin height, etc. You'll also need a length of track and the wagon you want to convert.

Step 1 - remove the couplings already on the loco. In my case these are the older spring loaded Farish mechanisms, which pry out of the wagon will relative ease. Mind the spring so it doesn't fling off into the abyss!

Next use a suitable knife or scalpel to remove any plastic nubs protruding from the underside of the wagon so that you're left with a flat surface to adher the outer coupling box to.

The photos above show the process of locating the coupler to the underside of the wagon. This is all covered in the instructions which come with the Dapol kit, but you simply line up the wagon with the tool until it won't move, then place the guide over the top against the buffers. Then you place a coupler (take care to make sure it orientated correctly, thin side up) in the space on the tool, apply glue to the top and the bottom of the wagon. Then place the wagon over the top and press down taking care to ensure it's a good fit and the glue starts to bond. It's recommended to use an epoxy glue but I stuck with cyanoacrylate which works fine. As you can see in the pictures above, there is a difference in height which meant the farish wagons ride up to go over the coupling box. At first I thought this would present an issue, but as you can see below, it matches the height of the newer NEM-coupling fitted Farish vent fine.

Here's the final result before fitting the couplers - 

Three down... 20 to go!
 

 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line Progress Update May 2026

A quick update for the bank holiday weekend - 

The wagons and 3d printed loads I mentioned in the last post arrived to add some more variety:

They're nicely made and can be easily swapped between wagons. You can also see another new addition above - a Sonic Models 56xx.

Unfortunately this arrived with some damage, which the seller was quick to part-refund to account for, but in addition I also found it had a slightly split gear. Sam at Sonic Models was quick to reply but unfortunately they don't have any spares for these now. So I've glued it with some AC and it seems to be holding for now. We'll see how it goes.

I've also decided I need some more magnets for the easishunt couplings - one in the fiddleyard, and one here in the runaround -

This will just make operations easier in the long term I think for shunting wagons back into the two sidings.

Otherwise that's it for now - I have a list of NEM pockets and couplings I need to buy to convert the rest of my rolling stock so that's my job for the rest of May I think whilst the weather is improving. 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line Progress Update April 2026

It's been a while since I last posted - but some more progress has been made, albeit not as much as I'd have liked.

 

 

First I replaced the cheap 12V power supply with a Gaugemaster WM1 - this is a 16V AC supply which splits into AC and DC feeds which powers the blocksignalling CDU nicely!

I then replaced the PWM controller entirely as I wasn't happy with the slow speed performance and didn't want to faff about adding in diodes etc to try and improve it. I've since obtained a handheld AGW-built Graham Farish controller to replace the W in the picture above (which lives on my shelf OO layout).

In the above I have fitted the magnets for the Dapol Easi-shunt couplings... so you know what's coming next.

Fitting them to all the rolling stock of course - of which I have ordered a few more pieces. I decided I needed some plank wagons, so I have a 3, 5 and 7 plank coming in BR grey with some 3D printed loads to add variety. I've also ordered an insulted van and a conflat.

 I'll need to order some more easi-shunt couplings to say the least! And Dapol conversions packs to replace the Peco and GF coupling pockets. 

 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line More DC Wiring

After a couple of weeks away on holiday, today I completed the wiring of the point motors and Peco PL26 switches -

 

This was straight forward but a bit fiddly. However, despite adding the CDU, I then found when testing that there wasn't enough oomph being delivered to throw the point motors far enough. At first I thought the CDU wasn't powerful enough, but having tested instead with a Gaugemaster 16V AC supply, it worked perfectly. So, my 12V DC PSU clearly isn't enough.

That leaves a few options -

• Replace the DC supply with something higher voltage - however this would then require some resistors to limit the supply to the track as 16-18V DC would too much for N gauge.
• Replace the supply with a Gaugemaster WM1 - this seems like the best choice as it provides 12V DC still (0.75a) AND 16V AC concurrently, much like the typical train controller (Gaugemaster Combi etc). It would be relatively simple to swap out.

I think I'm going with the second option.

My next task is to glue down the track securely as it's still loose in a few places and undulating in height. 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line DC Wiring

Today I made a start on the wiring - after getting the track down with the Peco PL10 motors attached - 

I use some 3D printed covers I got off eBay to hide the massive holes that this method creates - I could've gone with Seep motors or similar and not had to make massive rectangular holes but I already had these PL10s from my old Ffarquhar layout. 
 

Here are the components I'll be using -

• PSU - 12v 2amp adapter
• 12v PWM speed controller from eBay - I've been through a few of these and this model delivered the best results, although would still benefit from a couple of diodes on the output to improve the slow speed control
• Rotary reversing switch 
• Couple of 12v LEDs - amber to show power is connected, and red when power is being delivered to the track
• Peco PL26 passing contact switches in a PL27 switch bank - two red levers will move pairs of points, the rest are black for single points

I've also ordered a small CDU which I hope I can use with the same power supply to deliver a bit of extra oomph and reliability.

First I located and installed the fixed components - speed, direction and power with the two LEDs in situ. The bank of point switches will sit on top neatly.

 

Wiring is fairly simple, just two wires after the PWM and rotary switch using chocolate block connectors to split it to the 3 track feeds. I'm waiting until the CDU arrives before I wire the points up.

But otherwise it's all tested and working. 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line Rolling Stock

Whilst I take my time with the construction, let's turn to rolling stock choices for this layout.

My N gauge collection is predominantly era 4 and 5, covering the western and london midland region. I'm envisaging that this branch line exists somewhere between the two, giving me more choice to mix and match locos. It's not too far out in the sticks though, as suburban coaches provide a daily service with an occasional autotrailer from a different town. Mixed goods trains arrive late in the day, to be handled in time for the early morning pick-up goods, which will allow just enough shunting to be of interest.

I created the stock boxes today, utilising again the handy 2.5L really useful boxes - I order pick and pluck foam with a 35mm depth from eBay and had some left over to make up two boxes.

This is how the box results using one half of the foam for each box, with the removed padding lining the gap to the right to provide another storage spot.

So what have I chosen?

Motive Power

• Graham Farish 372-211A 3F Jinty BR Black (early)
• Graham Farish 372-325 3MT BR Standard Tank BR Black (early)
• Graham Farish 371-987 64xx Pannier BR Lined Green (late)
• Graham Farish 372-625 2MT Ivatt BR Lined Green (late)
• Dapol 2D-012-005 Class 22 BR Green (late)
• Dapol 2D-009-003 Class 121 BR Green Bubblecar
  

Rolling Stock

• Graham Farish 374-280A BR Mark 1 Suburban Composite
• Graham Farish 374-311 BR Mark 1 Suburban Brake
• Graham Farish 374-611 ex-GWR Hawksworth Autotrailer
• 3x Graham Farish 377-250 16t Mineral Wagons (unfitted)
• Dapol NB002-BR Gunpowder Van
• Dapol 2F-014-004 ex-GWR Fruit D
• 3x Graham Farish Bauxite Assorted Vans
• Graham Farish 373-675A 14t Tanker Mobil Oil
• Graham Farish 377-300A ex-LMS Brakevan (fitted)
• Peco KNR-48 ex-Midland Brakevan (unfitted) 

In truth, the locomotives are overkill - you could get away with less. My intention is to be able to run the layout as early BR where steam still ruled the roost, and then switch to post-withdrawal early Diesel with the Class 22 and bubblecar. Over time I can always add a bit more variety with conflats, grampus', different brake vans, etc.

All the locos are DCC Ready, but I intend to run the layout with DC control - it seems simpler to my mind with typically one engine in steam.

I hope soon to get the track down and wiring complete, but that's for next time. 

 

Peco Plan 2: BR Branch Line Build

This weekend I started a new project - whilst I try to sell my TT:120 layout - I wanted to build something simple in N gauge with a bit a operational play value. Whilst browsing some track plan books, I came across this Peco plan that briefly appeared and then disappeared from their track plan books - 

Total size is 2.5ft x 2.5ft so easily storable and fits on the dining room table. Rolling stock requirements are modest - a tank engine and a passenger coach with a few wagons would be enough. You could alter eras by swapping out with a Class 22 and DMU.

I'll compile a separate entry with my rolling stock for this layout but for now it was a case of getting started with the baseboard construction. After building my DCC plank, I though foamboard was the way to go with this as well considering it's relatively small size. 

After cutting to size, the pieces were glued in place with tacky PVA held in place with masking tape until dried. This results in a solid construction when dried whilst still remaining extremely lightweight. I gave my board a height of 4cm which should be sufficient for the Peco point motors I will be using.

That's all for now. 

  

Building a DCC Programming Plank

DCC Programming Plank

As a side project whilst trying to finish off my TT:120 Minories layout, I decided to build a DCC programming plank for my N gauge locomotives which I'd started to collect. It needn't be very big, as I wanted to have it permanently connected to my desktop PC so I could program using JMRI. I also wanted to try out the British Finescale Code 40 track whilst doing this as such short lengths were relatively undaunting, never having built any of my own track before.

 

In another post, I described how I built a small baseboard out of foamboard and shortly after, how I built a British Finescale turnout kit and flex track. All that was missing was the DCC gubbins... 

 

Some months before, I bought a bulk job listing off eBay from Rails of Sheffield. It included a few different things:

• PiSprog board and enclosures
• Various power supplies
• Sprog IIv4 and power supply
• Peco track cleaner 

I have a weakness for eBay listings like this, where I can figure them out and get several end products out of one purchase.

Naturally the Sprog IIv4 would be perfect for my DCC plank. I then picked up a cheap Raspberry Pi3 and Android phone (I went for a Samsung Xcover 4 for less than £10!) and after an afternoon fiddling - I then had a full DCC command system using JMRI, with a 4.3amp power supply and control via either computer (using a VPN for remote access) or using the free EngineDriver app. I intend to use this in a future DCC layout so for now it's packed away but ready to use.

I digress. For my plank layout, I also wanted to try out wire in tube control for the point I'd built. I ordered a kit with some brass tubing and piano wire but this didn't turn out to be suitable. In the end I bent a bit of the wire and glued it through a mini slide SPDT switch. This was then wired to switch the frog polarity.

The track was layed on some spare cork, with some foam added at the end of each siding to protect against any accidents.

Whilst I may finish the layout with ballast and scenery in the future, for the time being it's now serving it's purpose as a programming track.

 

British Finescale Track - Part 2

British Finescale - Flex track

As well as the turnout kit, building the scale 60ft lengths of straight flex track was far more straight forward - it simply involves threading two lengths of rail (making sure to get it the correct way up) into the 3D printed webbed chairs which are securly held in the jig as shown below -

 

Above are my first attempts to solder two 60ft sections together after fitting the metal rail joiners (far fiddler to fit than the traditional peco ones!) and then adding dropper wires. In hindsight, I should've used smaller gauge wire as soldering 16 AWG is difficult due to the comparatively smaller surface area of the code 40 rail underside.

British Finescale Track - Part 1

British Finescale N Gauge Track - A5 Turnout

I recently built an A5 turnout using one of the British Finescale kits. As well as the turnout kit, I also ordered some flex track, rail joiners and a jig for constructing lengths of straight track. I previously ordered the introductory kit for 2mm FS (some code 40 track and a kit to build a 16t mineral wagon along with a book all about the scale) but found that the track was easy to distory and hard to keep straight. After coming to the decision that 2mm was a step too far for my skills and interests, I still wanted to try out building my own track, albeit using one of these kits.

 

Below are some pictures taken during construction of the turnout -

 

If I was doing it again, I'd take more care cutting the lengths of rail - particularly around the frog area as I didn't get these quite right which resulted in them coming free/moving later on, particularly when adding the soldered dropper wires.