The wagons and 3d printed loads I mentioned in the last post arrived to add some more variety:
They're nicely made and can be easily swapped between wagons. You can also see another new addition above - a Sonic Models 56xx.
Unfortunately this arrived with some damage, which the seller was quick to part-refund to account for, but in addition I also found it had a slightly split gear. Sam at Sonic Models was quick to reply but unfortunately they don't have any spares for these now. So I've glued it with some AC and it seems to be holding for now. We'll see how it goes.
I've also decided I need some more magnets for the easishunt couplings - one in the fiddleyard, and one here in the runaround -
This will just make operations easier in the long term I think for shunting wagons back into the two sidings.
Otherwise that's it for now - I have a list of NEM pockets and couplings I need to buy to convert the rest of my rolling stock so that's my job for the rest of May I think whilst the weather is improving.
It's been a while since I last posted - but some more progress has been made, albeit not as much as I'd have liked.
First I replaced the cheap 12V power supply with a Gaugemaster WM1 - this is a 16V AC supply which splits into AC and DC feeds which powers the blocksignalling CDU nicely!
I then replaced the PWM controller entirely as I wasn't happy with the slow speed performance and didn't want to faff about adding in diodes etc to try and improve it. I've since obtained a handheld AGW-built Graham Farish controller to replace the W in the picture above (which lives on my shelf OO layout).
In the above I have fitted the magnets for the Dapol Easi-shunt couplings... so you know what's coming next.
Fitting them to all the rolling stock of course - of which I have ordered a few more pieces. I decided I needed some plank wagons, so I have a 3, 5 and 7 plank coming in BR grey with some 3D printed loads to add variety. I've also ordered an insulted van and a conflat.
I'll need to order some more easi-shunt couplings to say the least! And Dapol conversions packs to replace the Peco and GF coupling pockets.
After a couple of weeks away on holiday, today I completed the wiring of the point motors and Peco PL26 switches -
This was straight forward but a bit fiddly. However, despite adding the CDU, I then found when testing that there wasn't enough oomph being delivered to throw the point motors far enough. At first I thought the CDU wasn't powerful enough, but having tested instead with a Gaugemaster 16V AC supply, it worked perfectly. So, my 12V DC PSU clearly isn't enough.
That leaves a few options -
Replace the DC supply with something higher voltage - however this would then require some resistors to limit the supply to the track as 16-18V DC would too much for N gauge.
Replace the supply with a Gaugemaster WM1 - this seems like the best choice as it provides 12V DC still (0.75a) AND 16V AC concurrently, much like the typical train controller (Gaugemaster Combi etc). It would be relatively simple to swap out.
I think I'm going with the second option.
My next task is to glue down the track securely as it's still loose in a few places and undulating in height.
Today I made a start on the wiring - after getting the track down with the Peco PL10 motors attached -
I use some 3D printed covers I got off eBay to hide the massive holes that this method creates - I could've gone with Seep motors or similar and not had to make massive rectangular holes but I already had these PL10s from my old Ffarquhar layout.
Here are the components I'll be using -
PSU - 12v 2amp adapter
12v PWM speed controller from eBay - I've been through a few of these and this model delivered the best results, although would still benefit from a couple of diodes on the output to improve the slow speed control
Rotary reversing switch
Couple of 12v LEDs - amber to show power is connected, and red when power is being delivered to the track
Peco PL26 passing contact switches in a PL27 switch bank - two red levers will move pairs of points, the rest are black for single points
I've also ordered a small CDU which I hope I can use with the same power supply to deliver a bit of extra oomph and reliability.
First I located and installed the fixed components - speed, direction and power with the two LEDs in situ. The bank of point switches will sit on top neatly.
Wiring is fairly simple, just two wires after the PWM and rotary switch using chocolate block connectors to split it to the 3 track feeds. I'm waiting until the CDU arrives before I wire the points up.
Whilst I take my time with the construction, let's turn to rolling stock choices for this layout.
My N gauge collection is predominantly era 4 and 5, covering the western and london midland region. I'm envisaging that this branch line exists somewhere between the two, giving me more choice to mix and match locos. It's not too far out in the sticks though, as suburban coaches provide a daily service with an occasional autotrailer from a different town. Mixed goods trains arrive late in the day, to be handled in time for the early morning pick-up goods, which will allow just enough shunting to be of interest.
I created the stock boxes today, utilising again the handy 2.5L really useful boxes - I order pick and pluck foam with a 35mm depth from eBay and had some left over to make up two boxes.
This is how the box results using one half of the foam for each box, with the removed padding lining the gap to the right to provide another storage spot.
So what have I chosen?
Motive Power
Graham Farish 372-211A 3F Jinty BR Black (early)
Graham Farish 372-325 3MT BR Standard Tank BR Black (early)
Graham Farish 371-987 64xx Pannier BR Lined Green (late)
Graham Farish 372-625 2MT Ivatt BR Lined Green (late)
Dapol 2D-012-005 Class 22 BR Green (late)
Dapol 2D-009-003 Class 121 BR Green Bubblecar
Rolling Stock
Graham Farish 374-280A BR Mark 1 Suburban Composite
Graham Farish 374-311 BR Mark 1 Suburban Brake
Graham Farish 374-611 ex-GWR Hawksworth Autotrailer
3x Graham Farish 377-250 16t Mineral Wagons (unfitted)
Dapol NB002-BR Gunpowder Van
Dapol 2F-014-004 ex-GWR Fruit D
3x Graham Farish Bauxite Assorted Vans
Graham Farish 373-675A 14t Tanker Mobil Oil
Graham Farish 377-300A ex-LMS Brakevan (fitted)
Peco KNR-48 ex-Midland Brakevan (unfitted)
In truth, the locomotives are overkill - you could get away with less. My intention is to be able to run the layout as early BR where steam still ruled the roost, and then switch to post-withdrawal early Diesel with the Class 22 and bubblecar. Over time I can always add a bit more variety with conflats, grampus', different brake vans, etc.
All the locos are DCC Ready, but I intend to run the layout with DC control - it seems simpler to my mind with typically one engine in steam.
I hope soon to get the track down and wiring complete, but that's for next time.
This weekend I started a new project - whilst I try to sell my TT:120 layout - I wanted to build something simple in N gauge with a bit a operational play value. Whilst browsing some track plan books, I came across this Peco plan that briefly appeared and then disappeared from their track plan books -
Total size is 2.5ft x 2.5ft so easily storable and fits on the dining room table. Rolling stock requirements are modest - a tank engine and a passenger coach with a few wagons would be enough. You could alter eras by swapping out with a Class 22 and DMU.
I'll compile a separate entry with my rolling stock for this layout but for now it was a case of getting started with the baseboard construction. After building my DCC plank, I though foamboard was the way to go with this as well considering it's relatively small size.
After cutting to size, the pieces were glued in place with tacky PVA held in place with masking tape until dried. This results in a solid construction when dried whilst still remaining extremely lightweight. I gave my board a height of 4cm which should be sufficient for the Peco point motors I will be using.
So, finally after 9 months or so the track has been pinned and glued for the entire layout and I've also painted the baseboards.
In hindsight I probably should have done that to begin with, but hey ho.
I need to take a break for a while as I've started a new job and my credit card needs some relief from buying things but my next steps are as follows:
Point control - I've decided to do this manually but there's a couple of approaches; wire in tube method or something like the Ratio 138 Point Control Unit set. I'm going to buy one of the ratio kits first to try out as it may require lifting the point work again so I want to get this sorted before I move onto the next step.
Ballast, paint and weather the track - I've never ballasted track before so this will be interesting I'm sure. I intend to do a test section on one of the fiddleyards to begin with just to get my technique right.
Finish off the signal box and buffer stops - this needs paints and interior detail so will require a few more purchases. I am tempted to try the Ratio N gauge kit for the interior details. The size difference isn't as big as it is to OO but I'll have to see how it looks. I also have some other Ratio N gauge kits on my wishlist to buy - telegraph poles and wooden plank sheeting with which to build the level crossing. I found on eBay some TT scale crossing gates too so that should come together nicely. There is a Noch crossing kit if the gauge difference is too big to look okay.
And in other news:
My A4 from The Easterner set is poorly; since fitting the HM 7000 decoder for DCC control I wasn't happy with the noise and vibration during slow speeds.
So I disassembled it to try and figure out where the issue was.
At first I found a random screw which I thought might be catching on the mechanism:
But removing this didn't improve things. So I diassembled it further until I got to the motor and it became clear this was the issue:
You may need to turn it up to appreciate the difference. Basically the motor is only smooth in operation above speed setting 25 in the HM DCC app. Now as my layout is end to end it's unlikely to spend most of it's time above this speed.
So I've emailed Hornby technical services for their advice and to see if they can repair it for me with a new motor.
In the process of the above (and removing the decoder to test it on DC vs DCC) I've also managed to break off the plastic lugs that hold the tender in place so it permanently sits skewiff now:
So I'm hoping they can help fix that too.
On the upside, they replaced my power track sharpish and I've sent the Hornby Select controller that I won on eBay for £30~ to them for a firmware upgrade so at least even if there are problems, Hornby's customer service is at least pretty good in resolving them.
